Adjustable pattern for drafting garments



(NoModeL) 2 Sheets-Sheet 1. M. LENNART. ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTINGGARMENTS. No. 441,369.

Patented Nov. 25,1890.

UNITED STATES PATENT QEETCE.

MAGDELENA LENNART, OF MILWAUKEE, IVISCONSIN.

ADJUSTABLE PATTERN FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 441,369, dated November25, 1890.

Application filed August 23, 1890. Serial No. 362,852- (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, MAGDELENA LENNART, of Milwaukee, in the county ofMilwaukee and State of Wisconsin, have invented a new and usefulImprovement in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Dress lVaists andSleeves, of which the following is a description, reference being had tothe accompanying drawings, which are a part of this specification.

My invention relates to certain features of the device which have beenimproved, and which will be hereinafter specifically claimed.

In the drawings, Figure l is the pattern for the front of the waist of adress. Fig. 2 is the pattern for the side of the waist. Fig. 3 is thepattern for the back of the waist. Fig. 4 is the pattern for the sleeve.Figs. 5 and 6 are enlarged plan views of the upper and lower cross-bars,respectively, of the pattern for the side of the waist. Fig. 7 is anedge view of the part shown in Fig. 6, with a crosssection of the rearbar of the pattern for the side, showing the movable connection of thecross-bar with the upper bar. Fig. 8 is a removable slide to be used inconnection with the lower cross-bar of the pattern for the front of thewaist. Fig. 9 is a side view of a portion of one of the dart-rods. Figs.10 and 11 are plan views of the upper and lower graduated bars of thepattern for the back. Fig. 12 is a transverse section of a portion ofthe pattern for the sleeve on line 12 12 of Fig. 4.

My improved device is preferably constructed principally of metal, theseveral bars and plates being conveniently made of tin and the severalrods of wire. The graduated scales may be formed by stamping them in themetal, or may be printed on paper and pasted on the metal bars.Preferably the scales are stamped in the metal bars.

The drawings, Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4, in this application are made to ascale one-third the 1 size of the actual pattern.

In the pattern for the front of the waist the top cross-bar, consistingof the bars A and A, and the lower cross-bar, consisting of the parts B,B, B, and B, are connected to and made to slide on the front and rearvertical bars C and D, respectively. For this purpose the cross-bars Aand B are each provided with a headed stud, the head of which isreceived movably in a partially-covered channel there for in the bar D,and the cross-bars A and B are each secured rigidly to a sleeve orclasp, which partially surrounds the bar 0 and slides thereon. The partsA and B of the cross-bars are constructed to telescope into the parts Aand B, respectively. The re movable slide C, Fig. 8, is adapted to slidein the parts B and B of the lower cross bar and to connect themtogether, particularly when the two parts are brought close to eachother. The part A of the cross-bar projects a little way in front of thebar 0, and a dotted line C, drawn from the top to the bottom of the bar0 and curved outwardly to the end of the part A, indicates the line ordirection in which the cloth is to be cut with reference to the pattern.A rod E, fastened rigidly at its rear end to the part A, is secured atits front end rigidly to the slide E, which is rigid to the part- A.DartlOdSCLCL', bl), c c, and d d are hinged in pairs, respectively, tothe sleeves e efiloose on the rod E. The parts a, b, c, and d arerespectively secured rigidly to parts of the lower cross-bar of thefront pattern and are also respectively arranged to telescope in sleevesf f f f, fixed on the ends of the parts a b c (1. These severaldart-rods project below the lower or waist cross-bar sufficiently far tobe a guide for cutting the waist of a dress to its extreme lower edge.The parts b c are secured rigidly to the part B of the cross-bar and arepreferably connected together at their lower end. The part d is securedmedially rigidly to the part B of the waist cross-bar, and at its lowerend is bent toward the front and again bent upwardly and at its upperend is secured to the slide E, which is secured rigidly to the part BThe front portion d of the rod forms a line extending outwardlycontinuously with the front line of the front bar 0. These dart-rods aresomewhat curved and are arranged in pairs curving centrally from eachother in each part, which central curve is adapted to,

be lessened or entirely omitted by adjustment of the'pattern. A rod f,constructed of wire, formed, preferably, into an angular loop, has itsupper extremities secured rigidly to the part B of the crossbar. Therear edge of this rod f is slightly curved and extends downwardly andoutwardly and is adapted to serve as a pattern for cutting that part ofthe rear edge of the front piece of the waist of the dress that extendsbelow the waist or below the lower crossbar. A curved bar, consisting ofthe parts D and D, is hinged at its lower end to the bar D and in thepattern forms a part of the arm hole or scye. The two parts D and D arearranged to telescope or slide one on the other through a sleeve fixedto the one and permitting the other to slide therein. A top bar, formedof the parts 1 and F, is arranged at an angle to the upper or bust bar AA, and the part F is secured rigidly to the part D, while the part F issecuredrigidly to a vertical bar G. A horizontal bar G is securedrigidly to the front barO, and the free ends of the two bars G and Gcross'each other, movably sliding in a'sleeveguide G. A curved bar intwo parts H and H, the outer ends of which are pivoted to the front endsof the bars F and G, respectively, telescope one within the othermedially, and form the adjustable pattern for the neck at the front andside of the dress. The bars A, B, C, D, F, G, and G are severallygraduated and provided with a scale .-indicated by figures, as shown inthe drawings.

In the pattern for the side of the waist shown in Fig. 2 the upper andlower crossbarsI and J are each secured by a headed stud in the rear barK, the heads of which studs are received and slide in a partiallycoveredchannel therefor in the bar K, and at their front ends the bars I and Jare received and slide in the clasps or sleeve-guides I and J,respectively, which guides partially sur-' round and slide on the frontbar K. Little tongues partially cut from the guides I and J arebentinwardly and are elastic, forming springs g g,'which bear yieldinglyagainst the bars I and J. A curved bar consisting of the parts L and L,which parts at their outer ends are pivoted, respectively, to the topends ofthe bars K and K, are constructed to telescope medially one inthe other, and are adapted to form a portion of the pattern of the armhole or scye. 'The bars K, K, I, and J are graduated and have a scaleindicated thereon by figures, as shown in the drawings. Two rods g g,preferably formed in angular loops, have their upper extremities securedrigidly to the bar J and guide J, respectively, and project downwardlyand outwardly there from, their lateral outer line being curvedslightly,which rods so constructed and arranged are adapted to serve fora pattern for cutting the lower portion of the side of the waist of thedress.

In the pattern for the back the upper and lower cross-bars, consistingof the parts M and M and N and N, respectively, are connected movably tothe'bars O and P, the parts M and N being connected to the front bar 0by headed studs, which slide in a channel therefor in the bar 0, whilethe parts M and N are respectively secured rigidly to guide sleeves h 72which partially surround and slide on the bar P. The parts M and M and Nand N at theirinner endstelescope on each other in pairs, as shown. Aplate P, having a rear edge in a continuous line with the rear edge ofthe bar P, is secured rigidly to the bar P at its top end. A bar Q,located obliquely to the bar P, slides endwise in asleeve formed on thefront oblique edge of the plate P, and a bar Q is pivoted at one end tothe otherwise free end of the bar Q and at the other end to the top ofthe bar 0. A slight amount of lost motion is provided for by providingslots in the bar Q at its respective ends, in which the pivotsconnecting it to the adjoining bars are inserted. The bar Q; is slightlycurved on its outer edge and forms a portion of the pattern for thearmhole or scye. The top edge of the plate P is also cut in a curvedform, thereby adapting it for cutting that portion of the neck of thedress thereby. Small tongues are cut in the parts h and N in the guidesh 7L and in the plate P, which are turned inwardly and form springs it,bearing against the bars sliding beneath them. A curved rod leis hingedat its upper end to the bar Q, its lower end passing movably through aloop formed on the barN at a little distance from the bar P, which loopis formed by turning the upper end of the rod m into a loop form. Twoguide-rodsm and a, forming angled loops, have their extremities secured,respectively, to the parts N and N of the lower cross-bar. These loopsproject downwardly below the other portions'of the pattern, and theirouter lateral edges are inclined outwardly downwardly, forming thepattern for cutting the lower portion of the rear part of thedresswaist. The bars 0, P, M, N, and Q are graduated and provided. witha scale in. numbers, as shown in the drawings. The dotted line 'r r isat right angles to the lower bar formed of the parts N and N, whichindicates a line or belt passing directly about the person at the waist.The bar P is arranged at a slight angle to the vertical line 7* 'r, soas to adapt it to serve for a pattern which shall be quite correctwithout having to revise the cloth cut thereby after it is marked by thepattern.

In the sleeve-pattern shown in Fig. 4 the upper arm of the right, angledbar R is constructed to slide endwise on the barR, which is rigid on theplate S, which at its upper end is hinged to the bar T. The bar T,connected to the plate S at an oblique angle to the gen eral directionof the bar R slides at its upper end freely in a guide T, fixed onaplate S. Gross-bars U, U, and U at one end slide freely endwise,respectively,in ways therefor in the bar R, the plate S, and the plateS. A curved rod, consisting of the parts V, V, V, and V, is secured atone end rigidly to the end of bar U and at the other end is hinged by acommon joint to the ends of the two curvcdirods, each formed in twoparts, IV

and W and Y and Y. The rod, consisting of the parts V, V, V, and V,forms the in ner edge or line of the sleeve pattern, and the variousparts of the rod are adapted to slide on each other through sleeves p 19p therefor. The cross-bars U and U" are respectively fixed to the partsV and V of the rod. The rods formed of the parts and NV and Y and Y arehinged at a distance apart on the plate S, and the two parts of each rodare adapted to slide on each other through sleeves q q therefor. Theouter edges of the plates S and S are respectively curved properly toform a pattern for the outer edge of the sleeve. These two plates are soarranged as to be made adjustable toward and from each other, whereby along or short sleeve is provided for, and the inner rod, formed ofvarious parts V, V, V, and V, is arranged to be adjusted toward and fromthe plates S and S, whereby a narrower or wider sleeve is provided for;also, the lower portion of the sleeve may be lengthened or shortened bysliding the bars R and U with the rod V toward or from the end of theplate S. The bars R, T, U, U, and U are graduated, having a scaleindicated by figures thereon, as shown in the drawings.

The plates S and S in the sleeve-pattern are formed and adapted forcutting the two parts of a sleeve, the upper and larger part of thesleeve being out along the outer edge of the plates S and S, and theunder or narrow part of the sleeve being out along the inner edge of theplates and along the direction of the dotted line, forming thecontinuation of their inner edges in connection with the rod V, as theother edge or line of the pattern in both cases.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is=

1. In a pattern for drafting a dress=waist, the combination, in thepattern for drafting the front part of the waist, of front and reargraduated bars 0 and D, connected together by graduated and adjustablecross-bars, and curved adjustable bar D D, graduated and adjustable barF F, graduated bars G and G, sleeve G, in wh ch bars G and G cross eachother movably and adjustably, and curved adjustable bars H and II, allarranged substantially as described.

2. In a pattern for drafting the front part of a dress-waist, thecombination, with front and rear and graduated bars 0 and D, ofgraduated and adjustable cross-bars formed in parts A and A and B, B, B,and B, and dart-rods hinged at their upper ends in pairs on blockssliding on a transverse rod E, which dart-rods extend from the rod Enear the upper or bust cross-bars to a considerable distance below thelower or waist cross-bar, the rods being curved in pairs from and towardeach other, and being so afii Xed to the waistcross-bar that the spacebetween the rods of each pair of dart-rods is unobstructed by the waistcross-bar or otherwise from the top of the rods to their lowerextremities below the waist cross-bar, the rods being adjustablemedially on themselves above the lower or Waist cross-bar, to which theyare rigidly secured, substantially as described.

3. In a pattern for drafting the side of a waist of a dress, thecombination, with the rigid integral graduated front and rear bars K andK, of the graduated cross-bars I I and J J, formed in two partsadjustable medially on each other, and at their ends connectedadjustably to the barsK and K, and the curved bar I, L, formed in twoparts adjustable medially on each other and hinged at their ends to thebars K and K, and the rods g g, secured rigidly to the bars J and J, andextending downwardly and outwardly therefrom, substantially asdescribed.

4. In a dress-Waist pattern, consisting of a front, a side, and a backpattern formed separately, the combination of downwardly and outwardlyprojecting front and rear rods connected rigidly to the lower or waistcross-bars of the back and side patterns, of a downwardly-projectingfront rod, a downwardly and rearwardly projecting rear rod, anddownwardly projecting dart-rods secured rigidlyto the lower or waist barof the front pattern, all of which waist-bars are adjustable verticallyon the side bars of their respective patterns, and all saiddownwardlyprojecting rods, being rigidly affixed to their respectiveparts of the waist cross-bars, are constantly in the same relativepositions thereto, substantially as described.

5. In a pattern for the back of the waist of a dress, the combination ofthe rear integral bar P, neckplate P, rigid to the bar P, front bar 0,bar Q, adjustable on plate P, curved bar Q, hinged to bars 0 and Q,respectively,

bust and waist cross-bars formed in two parts M M and N N, respectively,and adj ustable on each other and secured adj ustably at their outerends to the bars 0 and P, respectively, and integral swinging rod 7c,hinged at its upper end to the curved bar Q, medially and near its lowerend passing movably through a guide on the cross-bar N, substantially asdescribed. 1

6. In a pattern for the front of a dress-waist, the combination, withthe side bars 0 and D, of a bust cross-bar formed in two parts A and A,arranged to telescope medially on each other, the front part A beingconnected adj ustably vertically to the bar 0 and having a portionthereof which projects in front of the bar 0, the extremity of theprojection being at a fixed and constant distance from the bar 0,substantially as'described,

7. In a dress-sleeve pattern, the combination, with plate S, havinggraduated bar R fixed thereon, bar R, adjustable on bar R, graduated barT, hinged to plate S, and plate S, having a bar T fixed thereon in whichbar T is adjustable, of graduated cross-bar U, adj ustable in bar R,curved transverse rods Y Y and W W, each formed in two parts, sliding oneach other medially and severally hinged at their inner ends at adistance apart to the plate S, curved sectional rod V, V, V, and V, theseveral sections sliding on each adjoining section, the rod at one endbeing fixed to the bar U and at the other end being hinged to the rods Wand Y, and gradu ated cross-bars U and U, respectively fixed at one endto the medial sections V and V and at the other endbeing adj ustable inplates IO S and S, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

MAGDELENA LENNART.

'Witnesses:

O. T. BENEDICT, C. H. KEENEY.

